Can Dogs and Cats Live Together?

We make a lot of jokes about the war between the species, but the reality is that hundreds of thousands of dogs and cats live together successfully. While it is no big deal after awhile, the introductions and the first few days of dog and cat cohabitation are critical. You do not want to just let them work it out on their own.

If You Have a Dog and Are Getting a Cat

When you bring it home, the cat really needs to have its own room. Even a bathroom will work. Let the cat get settled for a day, and make sure you and other housemates spend time with it in the room. After its settled a bit, bring the dog into the room, leashed, and let it watch the cat for a bit. If you are working with just a small bathroom, put the dog on a leash and bring the cat into the main room.

Let the cat explore with the dog on the leash. When it seems like the right time, let the dog off the lease and stay right next to it as it goes to check out the cat. Give the dog treats and pet the cat, if you can. The cat may run off, and this will make the dog run after the cat. Firmly, but clearly say no and have the dog come back and sit with you. Play with the dog, and keep watching the two. You want the dog to understand that cat-chasing is not acceptable.

If You Have a Cat and Are Getting a Dog

Puppies are easiest to introduce to cats. They certainly won't hurt the cat, but then you have to be very careful that a dominant cat won't scratch the puppy. Even a goofy puppy will figure out that it should stay away from the cat pretty quickly, though, and if you can give the cat some retreat spaces like the tops of bookshelves, the cat is much more likely to jump on the bookshelf than swat the puppy.

Almost all shelters will have information about whether or not the dogs they want to find homes for have lived with cats. Even if they know nothing about the dog, there's still "the cat test". The shelter will have a small room and bring an assistant holding a cat into it. They will settle in, and then you and your prospective dog will come into the room. At first you just sit and see how the dog reacts to the cat sitting in the person's lap. Then, sometimes, the person will put the cat on a countertop or on the chair and see how the dog does. If you really want to be sure, the assistant may then put the cat on the floor, but not so close the dog will be able to reach it. You can get a pretty good read by watching how the dog reacts, and the people at the shelter will know enough dog body language to tell you if your prospective dog is cat-friendly or not.

When you bring the dog home, keep him on a leash until the cats have come out. Let him see them, but make him stay put. Let the cats come to the dog, at least close enough to smell him. Then take the leash off and watch the pair very, very closely for the first few hours. If the dog lunges or chases the cat, scold him quickly and assertively. If the dog and the cat manage to peacefully sniff each other, give the dog a treat.

The No-Dog Zone

If you have enough room in your house, assign one room to be cat-only. Put up a baby gate, or a dog gate to keep the dog out. This gives the cat or cats a place where they can snooze without getting a wet dog nose in their ear. It also gives them a place to go in case of a spat between them and the dog.

If your two pets just started living together, or if one of them is especially young, old, aggressive or shy, the cat-only room becomes even more important. Even if its a puppy that is at the disadvantage, the cats will behave better if they can get their own space. It is also okay to put food and water and a litter box in this room if there is a lot of concern about keeping the peace. Interestingly enough, this technique also works if you are having a party or a lot of house guests. Just don't close the door -- then you are turning a safety zone into confinement.

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New Kitten Care -Ten Tips For Raising Your Kitten

You've picked your brand new kitten from a litter, and you're now ready to bring him home. You naturally want to give him the best possible start in life. Here are 10 tips to help him develop into a confident, affectionate adult cat who'll give you years of stress-free pleasure.

1. Make sure you're fully prepared for his arrival. Have his toys, food, litter box, scratching post and bed all ready for him. This will help him to settle in more quickly.

2. Handle him - a lot. If kittens are handled a lot when they're young, they get used to it and learn to enjoy it. As a result, they're much more likely to turn into affectionate adults that love to be cuddled and stroked. Your new kitten should always be handled gently. If you have young kids, you'll need to supervise them with Kitty at first, to make sure they don't accidentally hurt him.

3. Get him used to receiving everyday care from you. This includes grooming him, washing his face, bathing him and cleaning his ears and eyes. If he gets comfortable with all this when he's a kitten, you'll have few problems with it when he's an adult.

4. Safely introduce him to the everyday things that will form part of his world as soon as possible. This may include other people, kids, other pets, travelling in your car, boarding at your sister's house when you go on holiday etc. etc. Doing this will turn him into a confident, happy, adaptable adult.

5. Play with him and talk to him every day. Bored kittens and cats often seek amusement in activities that you won't be too keen on, such as destroying the furniture. Playing with your kitten will build your relationship with him and help to prevent boredom.

6. Feed him a wide selection of foods that are suitable for kittens. This gets him used to a varied diet, and reduces the risk of him becoming a gourmet cuisine snob who'll only eat fresh wild salmon caught in the Scottish Highlands...

7. Gently and calmly set boundaries. Kittens are like kids - they'll push their luck to see how much they can get away with. Common naughty kitten behavior includes scratching, biting, jumping on the kitchen worktops, scratching the furniture and abseiling the curtains. If your kitten is being naughty, stop him, say "no" (don't shout) and move him away from the scene of his crime. It's much easier to train a new kitten to be good than an adult cat, so setting the boundaries whilst he's young can save you years of frustration in the future.

8. Don't give in to vocal blackmail. Some kittens try to get what they want by meowing non-stop. If you keep giving in to this, your kitten will turn into a very vocal adult cat who'll drive you nuts with his constant noisy demands.

9. Keep him safe. Nasty frights - for example falling down the toilet, being tormented by a kid or having a dog bark in his face - will have a negative impact on him. The more unpleasant experiences he has as a kitten, the more likely he is to become a nervous, mistrusting adult.

10. Accept that your new kitten is a baby with loads of energy. Whilst you can discourage him from acts of willful destruction, you'll need to accept that your house is unlikely to survive completely unscathed. But hey, he's worth it!

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Teacup Kittens - The World's Smallest Kitten

Not all cats advertised as miniature are teacup kittens. Be aware that the standard size female cat will weight about 11 to 14 pounds. The standard size male cat will weight about 12 to 17 pounds. A teacup size female cat will weight about 3 to 6.5 pounds and the teacup size male will weight about 3 to 7.5 pounds. This is a good rule-of-thumb to keep in mind when shopping for a teacup. Some unscrupulous breeders will try to sell you a cat under ten pounds as a teacup when that weight falls within the normal weight range for a standard cat. When shopping for a teacup do not be fooled by a breeder that will try to sell you a runt or tell you that any cat less than ten pounds is a miniature.

Teacup kittens come in a variety of breeds. These cats are bred to be small by inbreeding. The smallest cat of one breed is mated with the smallest cat of another breed progressively in each generation and with each mating a miniature or teacup cat is born. The result of this type of breeding results in dwarfism. There are two forms of dwarfism where teacups and other miniature animals are concerned and they are achondroplastic where the dominant gene will, through mutation, affect the hormones that control bone growth, and the primordial which occurs naturally. At this point let's cover the most common breeds of miniature (teacup) cats.

The most popular of the teacup kittens is the combination of Persian and Exotic. The MiniPer, a combination of Persians and Exotics was developed in California by Cher Simmitt. The MiniPers are primordial dwarves and their bodies are proportionate in every way except that they are smaller than the standard Persian and Exotic. The MiniPaws are a hybrid and carry the genes of both the achondroplastic and primordial dwarfism. They are small in proportion and have shortened legs thus, causing the legs to be somewhat deformed. They are a good example of the mutation of the dominant gene and its affect on the hormones that control bone growth. .

The Napoleon was developed intentionally by mating a Munchkin with a Persian. They have long coats and beautiful big eyes much like the Persian. The Napoleon is the newest of the teacup breeds.

The Lambkin was developed by cross breeding a Munchkin with a Selkirk Rex. They are called Lambkin because of their soft curly coats that resemble the coat of a lamb. Most of the miniature or teacup kittens are cross breeds of Persians and Exotics and are the most popular and sought after of all of the miniature breeds.

Many people want the teacups because they're cute and resemble kittens. They are easy to hold and carry and most of them are lap cats. However, be forewarned, they may be kittens when you buy them but like all other cats they grow up and lose their kittenish ways. They are after all, cats and cats do not stay kittens forever.

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How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

Over the last 15 years, I have raised nine orphaned kittens. Four of them were two weeks old when their mother was killed; three others were only hours old when their mother died; two more kittens fell out of the nest in our barn when they were only a day old.

Raising motherless kittens is not a difficult process, but it does require patience, time and plenty of TLC.

Here are some tips to help you raise your orphaned kittens:

1. Make a nest.

Normally, a mother cat spends many hours a day in the nest with her kittens, which helps her babies stay warm. Keeping the kittens warm is important because if they're not warm enough, they won't want to eat, and in fact, all of their bodily functions will slow down.

To keep your orphaned kittens warm, make a nest in a small box and line it with towels or old t-shirts or sweatshirts to help the babies conserve their body heat. Put a towel over the box to keep out the light. Female cats choose nests that are dark. If you don't have a heat lamp, use a small 40-watt desk lamp and place it several feet above the box to help keep the kittens warm.

If the box is big enough, you can also use a jug or another large container filled with hot water to keep the babies warm. Place the jug in the box and then make a nest with towels beside it. Refill the jug when it cools off. You can use a quart jar as a "hot water bottle" too except that a quart jar cools off very quickly.

2. Use an eyedropper or a syringe to feed the kittens.

The first time I raised orphaned kittens, I discovered that the small nursing bottles available at vet clinics were too big. The kittens couldn't get their mouths around the nipples. So, at first, for newborn kittens, I used an eyedropper. As the kittens grew bigger, a syringe worked very well, the kind of syringe for giving injections (without the needle of course!). I started out with the 3 cc size and used larger syringes when the kittens grew bigger. The tip of a syringe is about the size of a cat's nipple, and my kittens eventually sucked hard enough on the end of the syringe to draw the plunger down by themselves. Check with your vet clinic to see if any used syringes are available or to see if you can buy new syringes from the clinic.

A word of caution: Whether you're feeding with an eyedropper or a syringe, be careful to give only a few drops at a time. My veterinarian told me that if the kittens were given too much formula at once (more than they could swallow), they might inhale it. Inhaling formula will make your kittens much more susceptible to pneumonia.

Along the way, I have also discovered that it is best to feed the kittens as much as they want to eat. They will settle down and sleep until the next feeding if they are getting enough to eat. Tiny kittens will start out taking maybe 1 CC at a time. As they grow bigger, they will eat around 12 CCs at a time (usually in several different helpings).

Kittens learn very quickly that food comes from the syringe you hold in your hand. If you are having trouble getting them to take the formula from the syringe, let nuzzle in the palm of your hand for a few seconds or let them suck on your fingers. Then introduce the syringe and let them suck on it while you very slowly press the plunger down.

3. Feed the kittens KMR or kitty formula that you have mixed yourself.

KMR, the canned cat milk replacer, is available at most vet clinics in either a premixed or dry form. It is specifically formulated for kittens to provide all the nutrients they need. Follow the directions on the label. The amount to feed is determined by body weight. My newborn kittens weighed three ounces each, and for the first several days, they only needed a half an eyedropper of KMR at a time.

My vet clinic also gave me a recipe for "kitten formula." After the first can of KMR, this is what all of my kittens have been raised on.

Here is the recipe for Kitten Formula

1 cup whole milk

1 tablespoon white corn syrup

1 egg yolk

a pinch of salt

Mix in a blender and mix it up far enough in advance so the bubbles will have time to dissipate.

Warm over medium heat. Heat the formula so it feels slightly warm to the touch. All of my kittens have refused to swallow the formula if it was too cold or too warm. The same was true for KMR.

4. Feed your kittens on a regular schedule three times a day.

Mother cats nurse their kittens every couple of hours. The veterinarian I consulted cautioned me not to feed them that often. "They won't eat well and you'll get frustrated and they'll get frustrated and it will be harder on everybody," he said. He was right. Feeding the kittens three times per day worked out very well.

5. Groom your kittens with a warm, wet washcloth and help them to empty their bladders and their bowels.

Young kittens are unable to empty their bladders or move their bowels, so you'll have to help them. Use a warm, wet washcloth and wipe under their tails until they have emptied their bladders and/or moved their bowels. Be prepared to use as many as four washcloths for each kitten. If they only have to empty their bladders, you won't need that many. If they have to empty their bowels, look out -- it could get messy! Smaller washcloths that you can wring out with one hand while you hold onto a squirming kitten with the other work best. I put the washcloths in a pail of warm water and put the pail where I can reach it easily.

Young kittens also do not know how to groom themselves, and after a day or two of eating kitten formula, they become sticky from the formula that inevitably dribbles down their chins. From time to time, use a warm, wet washcloth to wipe off the formula, but be careful not to get the kittens TOO wet or it will be hard for them to stay warm.

6. Provide a litter pan when they're four weeks old.

Cats have a strong instinct to use material that they can scratch around in when they have to empty their bladders and move their bowels. By the time the kittens are four weeks old, they will already be thinking in this direction and providing them with a litter pan will help them get the idea. You might still have to assist them with a washcloth for a while, but it won't be long before they are using the litter pan.

Kitty litter in an aluminum pie plate works well to start out. As the kittens grow bigger, use a bigger container for a litter box.

7. Start feeding solid food when the kittens are about six weeks old.

Kittens that are raised by their mothers probably will start eating sooner than six weeks, but you will be able to provide more milk than their mothers would have available.

When your kittens have gotten their teeth, you can begin feeding them solid food. If you want to feed dry food, a good quality kitten chow will work fine. Kitten chow has all of the nutrients and protein that they need to keep growing. Kitten chow also is made in tiny kitten-bite-sized pieces. To tempt their appetites and to give them a "treat," you can also try a little canned kitty food. Be sure to provide fresh water for your kittens to drink, as well. And until the kittens are eating solid food regularly, supplement their caloric intake with kitten formula. By this time, you won't have to feed them with a syringe. You can put the formula into a small saucer, and once they discover where it is and what it is, they will drink by themselves.

8. Be prepared to be surprised and amazed.

Kittens grow very quickly, and on some days, you will think they are growing right before your very eyes.

Kittens get their eyes open when they're about 10 days old.

They will start purring when they are as young as 6 days old.

Kittens will start other "kitty behaviors" such as shaking their heads, attempting to groom and lifting a hind food to scratch behind their ears when they are between two to three weeks old.

Young kittens will sometimes get the hiccups (!) while you are feeding them.

Young kittens are like baby humans, in a way. Their days consist of eating, sleeping and emptying their bowels and bladders. After the kittens have gotten enough to eat and have had their bodily functions taken care of, when you put them back in the "nest," they will sleep or rest quietly until you are ready to feed them again. If they are restless and crying and meowing, they might need a little more to eat, or they might have to empty their bladders or move their bowels, or they might feel cold.

As the kittens grow older, they will be awake for longer periods of time and will eventually start playing with each other.

By the time the kittens are four weeks old, you will most likely have to move them into a bigger box, if not sooner, because the first one will be too small and they will know how to get out on their own!

Read More... How to Feed and Care for Orphaned Kittens

House Cat: Keeping Your Kitten Occupied

Anyone who has owned a kitten knows they have loads of energy. They run through and over everything.They knock things down, they break things. So, what can you do to stop this? Well, nothing really. Kittens are what they are; but you can keep down the destruction and keep your kitten(s) occupied while you are at work, away or at home.

First of all, kittens are like little kids: they have loads of energy and those of us who are older sometimes wish we could have some of that energy. In order to keep that energy from destroying your home, you have to focus it somehow. Below are a few suggestions for focusing your kittens' energy away from your destructible belongings and on to something more appropriate. Mix and match as needed.

Remember, your kittens' needs will vary as he/she ages. Make sure you always keep your kitten happy and occupied, and your valuables will have a better chance of making it through kittenhood unscathed.

1. Get another kitten! Don't throw this suggestion away just yet. I know what you're thinking, "If one kitten is destructive, two will be worse." This is not necessarily true. Kittens will keep each other occupied, and though they might still want to play with that figurine on your table, it's easier to steer them away if their attention is drawn to someone their own age. And the fact of the matter is, if you can't spend at least 16 hours a day with your kitten, it is unfair to him/her to be alone all the time. (It can also lead to Top Cat Syndrome, but that's a whole different subject).
2. Lots of toys. Many times, small kittens can't experience the effects of catnip, so getting catnip toys can be moot before your kitten is at least 5 months of age. But, interactive toys, such as feathers on a pole, are great for playing with your kitten.
3. Great views. Kittens, just like cats, need stimulation to the brain, which can include something as simple as looking out the window at the falling snow. (I do not recommend letting cats outside as a means of "entertainment" as it is far too dangerous). Your house cat or kitten will watch the goings on outside just as you might watch TV.
4. Cat trees. Not only do cats and kittens need to scratch, but they also need to climb, stretch and play. Cat trees (the kind that are tall and wide at the base with multiple tiers) are too much fun to resist, and will also help keep kittens from scratching your furniture.
5. Decorative water fountains. This one probably sounds funny, but some decorative water fountains can make great entertainment for kittens and cats, as well as providing a great source of fresh water. Just be careful the kitten doesn't knock it over and that there are no small bits your kitten can eat off of it.

Christine Church is author of 4 books on the care of cats, one of which won the Iams Responsible Cat Ownership Award, another Honorable Mention in the CWA Communications contest, and another a best seller. Christine has written and published professionally over a hundred articles on the care of cats and horses. Christine is also a professional blog writer and novelist of paranormal and fantasy romance.

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Who said they can't be together?

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Tips For Bringing A New Kitten Home

Who can resist an adorable kitten? But before you fall head over heels, here are a few things for you to consider before you bring your new companion home.

Breed And Background Info

You now have many choices to make, from mixed to pure breeds and where to go to choose the right kitten for you. There are so many ways to get a new kitten, it can be a bit overwhelming. The classifieds are full of people selling or giving away new kittens; shelters abound with more cats than they can handle; and you have the boutiques and breeders ready to offer exotic breeds at a premium price.

Whatever means you choose, be sure that the kitten has been well-cared for and ok'ed by a veterinarian. If possible, try to get a kitten that has been properly weaned from his mother and seems ready for a new life. You may, however, decide to adopt an abandoned or neglected kitten. In this case, the shelter will do the necessary preliminary tests and give the care needed before you bring your kitten home.

Preparing Your Home

Make sure that you have a carrier, which you will need for future veterinarian trips, and place a blanket or towel inside to make him feel more secure.

It is important that the kitten get acclimatized to his new home gradually. Keeping the kitten in one room of the house, initially, will keep him safe in this new environment. Have family members come into the room quietly and gently engage him with your voice. Make sure that the litter box is easily found and at quite a distance from the food.

Go easy on playtime with family and friends so as not to overwhelm your new kitten. Of course, make sure that the room is kitten safe, because even the smallest kitten has a knack for finding new places to hide and dangling things that can be chewed.

It may be worth considering two kittens if you plan to be out of the home for most of the day. This way they will always have constant companionship and can exercise each other far more effectively than you can. Litter mates would be ideal.

Exploring The Home

Once you sense your new kitten is ready to explore the house, do so gradually, so he can always find his way back to his litter box and food.

Kittens are naturally curious and will start exploring their new territory. Learn to tread softly around your kitten because he spooks very easily. That way you'll build trust much faster and ensure your kitten develops a much calmer demeanor. If your kitten learns to be too nervous around you, he may develop more aggressive habits like nipping at your toes, or uses his claws to defend himself.

Once he bonds with you, he'll follow you everywhere, frolicking, teasing and very playful. His tiny claws will be sharp, so getting a scratch pad or cat tree will keep your kitty busy filing his claws, rather than doing so on furniture and carpets.

Kittens love toys and will play for hours. Your local pet store can show you what is available but a rolled up piece of paper will work as well. Always keep an eye on any toy for strings or anything that can be swallowed. Remember they are still babies.

You can also train your kitten and teach him new tricks. There are many books on training, and its best to start with a young animal as they are already curious and active. And it's a good way to channel some of that natural energy.

Encourage A Desirable Behavior And Routine

One of the most proactive things you can do for your kitten is to have him or her spayed or neutered before 6 months. This will reduce any territorial spraying, and aggressiveness in males, and, of course, help to control the cat population.

Your choice of litter is also important. Don't buy the clumping kind when your cat is less than 6 months old, as they may inadvertently lick the clumps off their paws and create a digestive blockage.

Clean your litter box daily, as cats have a highly developed sense of hygiene. And be sure the type of litter is agreeable to them. Cats also like privacy, so a covered box may be preferable, as well as contain any fresh odors. Watch for his preference, it will become evident soon enough.

Don't forget to brush your kitten regularly, as this is critical for his physical and emotional well-being. It'll also give you a chance to check out for any cuts or fur clumps. In nature, cats groom each other regularly. It's something they naturally enjoy.

Proper Nutrition

Having good quality food is also paramount to a cat's health and demeanor. Cats can be very finicky, so you may need to try a few varieties to find their favorites. Sticking with the highest quality food will prevent many health problems later on, and ensure a beautiful, shiny coat. Give your kitten wet food regularly, twice a day at first. This will keep down the frequency of hairballs.

After the first initial series of shots, remember to keep a yearly vet appointment in order to keep the necessary shots up to date and to head off any problem areas. You will also need to verify your animals medical records if you ever need to have your kitten groomed or kenneled boarded for any length of time

Getting a new kitten can be a joy for the whole family. With plenty of love and care you can plan on enjoying a beautiful friendship for a good 14 years and with luck, even longer.

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